Diamond Buying Guide

The diamond jewelry purchase you are about to make may be one of the most expensive and important items you’ll ever buy. It�s likely to be an investment, in one way or another so, like buying anything as an investment, it’s good to do some homework. Begin with a plan, a guide and knowledge.

The 4 Cs of Diamonds

Diamond Cut

When you compare diamonds, you will notice a difference in brilliance. A well cut diamond is cut in the proper proportions from the top so that the mirror like light qualities reflect off of each facet creating more fire and brilliance. A poorly cut diamond will cause the gem to lose brilliance and actual value. This is the only one of the four C’s that is controlled by human touch. While cut seems to have the least impact of the four Cs on value, a very precise cut will give maximum brilliance and greater value while a not so good cut will decrease the diamond’s worth.

There are several cut designs. Which to choose is primarily a matter of taste. The most well known diamond cuts include Marquis which is boat shaped and, like an oval cut, elongates the appearance of the finger. An emerald cut is more angled and rectangular in shape. Similar to this is the Princess cut which may be either square or rectangular. Pear shape is like a teardrop and rounded at one end. There are other cut designs and in order to make the best choice, ask your Markman’s professional to show you a variety of styles. In narrowing down the choices, a side by side comparison may provide the best way to choose.

Color

The color of diamonds crosses a wide range from deep blue to colorless. Gemological laboratories use a color scale from D to Z in referring to a diamond’s color. D is the finest and colorless diamond. Z is the final color on the scale and is a pale yellow. When a color is more intense, however, it may have the added value of a “Fancy Color” and might be of greater value than a colorless diamond.

Blue, green, red and other “Fancy Color” diamonds are rare and are very expensive. Markman’s carries a selection of these. When selecting the color of a diamond, also consider the setting to provide the best display.

Clarity

Several grading systems are used to evaluate clarity. The most widely used is the system developed by the Gemological Institute of America. What determines the degrees on this scale are the size and quantity of inclusions. Inclusions are miniscule natural birthmarks. The quantity and size of inclusions or of lack of them determines the diamond’s grade on the scale. The highest of these grades is, of course, “Flawless” and the lowest is “Imperfect” which has inclusions visible to the naked eye. While a diamond’s level on the scale will help determine its value, beauty is visual. To make an informed choice, ask your Markman’s professional to help compare clarity grades.

Carat

Carat is a measure of weight, not to be confused with size measurements. Each carat unit contain 100 points. A carat weight of 0.75 is also referred to as a 75 point diamond or ¾ carat. Weight is significant but, is not always an accurate measure of size. For instance, a shallow cut diamond will look larger because of its greater diameter. Diamond carats are not the same as carats of other stones or karats which measure gold purity.

See our diamond jewelry galleries ›

Other Buying Guide Tips

If it’s an engagement ring you’re shopping for, you need to choose a diamond that suits your girlfriend’s taste. Some soon to be grooms want the ring to be a complete surprise, so their purchase is usually based on their own opinions. Keep in mind that this may be wonderful, but risky. Listen to her and pay attention to her taste. Look at the jewelry she already has to see what she likes. Here are a few suggestions to help you decide:

The most important feature is the main diamond which is the largest part of the investment. You may want to choose a solitaire and at a later date, like an anniversary, add a diamond filled setting. Use the four C’s above to help you make a good selection of the main diamond.
Try to save enough money ahead of time to get at least a half carat. Smaller than this will not will not look as grand on your lady’s finger.
Although there are many beautiful and popular cuts, many jewelers believe the round cut will retain value best since it will show off the facets of the cut better.
For clarity, look for a diamond in the D though H range on the scale mentioned in the ‘Clarity’ section above. A diamond in this range will look very white versus a lower grade which will look darker and dull. If you see any black carbon specks or white unclear spots, this is not the diamond to buy.

Settings

Ring settings come in different designs. This is the part of the ring that attaches the ring to the band. Like a picture frame, settings are important to show the diamond in the most flattering manner. Certain diamond cuts work best with certain settings. These are some setting types:

Prong—Usually there are four or six prongs like small claws that hold the diamond in place. Prong settings allow the maximum light to radiate through all angles of the diamond. The prong setting is classic for engagement rings.
Tension—This is a contemporary style setting that is currently fashionable. The pressure of the band’s metal holds the diamond in place making it look as if it’s in midair.
Cluster—This setting is for a main diamond surrounded by smaller diamonds. This is one way to create a larger ring from smaller stones.
Baguette—Rectangular shaped diamonds added to the sides of a larger stone are called baguettes. These add another dimension to the solitaire diamond.
Three Stone Setting—This setting is not commonly used in engagement rings but, can be. The three stones generally signify past, present and future. Three stones of equal size can be used or the center of the trio may be larger.